Approaching France

I got up with the sun. You have little choice when you sleep out in the open but it was good to get an early start. The first 10km would be winding A-road and I wanted to do it early before it got too busy.

After I had packed, it was just before 9am when I got going and there was already traffic on the road. I have been surprised at how considerate drivers have been on this trip, pulling right onto the other side of the road to overtake me, even when I have ridden close to the edge to let them past. This road was different; the cars barely pulled out at all and when they did, it was usually, perversely, on a blind corner.

I read recently about a study in which people in hospital with injuries from a car crash that they had caused were asked to rate their driving ability. 85 per cent claimed to be above average. I'd like to have been present at some of those interviews. I imagine a man with his arms, legs and head in plaster explaining, "yeah well, see, there was this old dear dawdling along at 40 in a 50 zone and I'm like 'time is money sweetheart!' so I pull out to overtake and there's this truck coming and the truck driver's like 'haaaaw, haaaaw' with the horn, flashing his lights and that but there's plenty of room - I drive a lot so I'm good with distances - then all of a sudden, wham! Next thing I know, I'm in here! Funny how things turn out."

"Hmm, I see. And tell me Mr Thomas, how would you rate you driving ability overall?"

"Oh above average, definitely above average."

I pull off the main road and through the small village of Sigues where I'd asked for directions to the campsite. My legs were taking a lot longer to warm up today. Maybe they are feeling the pace after all.

The road climbed gently alongside a river through a series of steep, high-sided limestone gorges, thick with trees. The landscape had become much greener and I enjoyed the change of scene. I hadn't had any breakfast and planned to stop at Salvatieri de Esca but when I got there the cafe wouldn't open for another 15 minutes and the bread shop half an hour after that. So I ate some date bread and pushed on to Burgui.

Steep-sided gorge

I hadn't had any breakfast and planned to stop at Salvatieri de Esca but when I got there the cafe wouldn't open for another 15 minutes and the bread shop half an hour after that. So I ate some date bread and pushed on to Burgui.

The bread shop in Burgui is a delight. A baker slaves over a cast-iron oven while his wife rolls out dough and a girl, I presume their daughter, serves at the counter. In the corner a bucket of dough is kneaded by what looks like and industrial sized blender. I dashed back out to grab my camera.

The bakery in Burgui

Permission to take photos sometimes takes a bit of charm so I sprung back to the counter trying to be my most boyishly enthusiastic and, apologising for being such a tourist, I asked if they would mind my taking a photo?

"Tu tranquilo," ("Suit yourself") the counter girl replied, in an expressionless monotone.

I later asked if she could cut the bread for me and she replied "Tu tranquilo" this time pointedly dropping a bread knife on the counter. I could cut my own bread.

I imagine if I asked to strip naked and perform unsteady cartwheels by the freshly-baked croissants, the response would be similar.

I took my photos and asked about a tasty-looking thing cooling on the counter. "Bread with oil and sugar." This sounded like some kind of witchcraft to my hungry ears so I added it to my order.

Further up the village I stocked up with fruit, chorizo and cheese and had a coffee in the bar on the square.

After Burqui, the road followed the river Esca through more gorges. I was climbing steadily and really enjoying the cycling. The views were fantastic and I felt I had finally got into mountain country.

I have started waving at every cyclist I pass and mostly get a cheerful wave in return, most of all from other cycle tourists.

By 12.30 I was beginning to look for picnic spots. I wanted to make sure I was within easy distance of the top but didn't want to ride in the mid-afternoon sun. I saw an ideal spot by the river but it was too early to stop so I passed it up and carried on. Just before one o'clock I saw a spot which would do the trick. A small shingle beach by the river, just off the road. I took off my socks shoes and the padded liner to my shorts but was otherwise fully clothed when I walked into the river and bathed in the cold water.

I am 25km from France.

BC

Ps. I may not be able to update tonight or tomorrow lunchtime.

I should be back up and running by tomorrow evening, though.